All my dogs do some kind of work. More often than not the puppies parents will be working, and to be frank, I'd prefer if they'd follow in their footsteps too.

Aside from that, I'll sell to anyone with a good track record.

-BREEDING-
While I usually breed for strength and health, my main focus right now is health. This being said, color is disregarded. I only take good to excellent health testing, anyone less than doesn't get bred.

I'll breed a female for the first time around the 55-58 day mark, then again somewhere around 70, and for the last time at 90-100. That way it's perfectly evened out, and the litters are still in good shape.

It might not be how many go about breeding, but I found it works for my kennel.

It's worth noting that if a puppy shows extraordinary potential they will not be going for sale, and I do kennel checks just to be sure the dog won't be forgotten. (At least not for too long...)

I don't usually do public breedings, and if I do breed one of my own with someone else's that likely means I bought the dog. Who knows though, maybe it'll happen.

If you ever wish to return a dog, be my guest. There is always room for puppies to come back.

-PRICE-
In the case of pricing, I try to keep it as close to reality as possible. Breeder sum up all the expenses and divide it by how many puppies are in the litter.

Since even one object can cost $326 in game, a individual puppy,regardless of color, is going to cost $7,000.(The extra thousand because they're registered,) I don't accept any offer less than that, but at the same time I go off of the bidder's kennel condition and what not rather than the bid.

I typically retire my older dogs, unless there's one I think someone else can get use out of. Which in that case price is pretty undetermined.

Of course, I'd rather a good home and turn out at the end of the day. So if you feel like you qualify, go for it. first come first served if your of good quality.